Sunday, July 18, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Forge Welding
I was making some crosses last evening in preparation for Market Fair. You can see some shots of these crosses in one of my recent posts here: http://blackforestironworks.blogspot.com/2010/06/beautiful-rustic-cross.html.
These crosses require some welding. There are various techniques for welding (i.e. forge, MIG, Oxy-Acetylene), and I have taken a few classes in the various methods.
These crosses require some welding. There are various techniques for welding (i.e. forge, MIG, Oxy-Acetylene), and I have taken a few classes in the various methods.
This is my Chile Forge "Tabasco" at full burn (~20 psi) ready to weld:
Last night, I forge-welded, which involves scarfing the two ends to be joined (tapering them to thin, flat ends which overlap), heating the metal to immediately below its melting point and using a powder called flux (borax) to impede oxidation and increase the chance that the weld will stick. Once the two ends get to "white-hot" in the forge, the piece comes quickly out of the forge and is hammered together to make the weld.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Reviewing the Day's Work
After an evening in the forge, I often bring my work in to study it and to share it with the family; I often "tweak" it the following day to get it just how I want it.

You can see it was pretty hot out there. The temp went over 90 during the day this day, and most of this week. Even at almost 9PM, it had to be close to 100 degrees out there!
I noticed this one had a slight bend in the tail that made it sit funny and the cup was also tilted, neither of which I could let slide, so I fixed both the next day.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
In the Forge: Scroll Candlestick Holders
Market Fair is July 17th and 18th, and I am getting ready. Today, I was making some scroll candlestick holders:
Friday, July 2, 2010
Tasks
Make MF Inventory - 3 candlestick holders, 3 letter openers, 3 crosses, leaves
Finish ring
Make trivet
Make Tongs
Buy Drill Press
Buy Drill Press
Buy Sander
Make anvil Swage box (from Mark's book)
Make vise stand (from Mark's book)
Scott Forge (Illinois) family tour
Make vise stand (from Mark's book)
Scott Forge (Illinois) family tour
Claude Moore Colonial Farm Market Fair Brochure
Hello Market Fair visitors --
This is shaping up to be a great Fair. Below is a PDF that you can print and post to get the word out about the July Market Fair. Put it up at work, in your neighborhood, anywhere you can think of!
This is shaping up to be a great Fair. Below is a PDF that you can print and post to get the word out about the July Market Fair. Put it up at work, in your neighborhood, anywhere you can think of!
Hope to see you there!
Please see more details at Claude Moore Colonial Farm website at: http://www.1771.org/
Friday, June 25, 2010
Mark Aspery Class: Pass-through Ring
I took an amazing class June 13-19 at Touchstone Center for Crafts in Farmington, Pennsylvania taught by Mark Aspery and his more-than-able assistant, Gerald Boggs. I took a week of vacation and really expanded my craft during my time there. The place was great, with very nice dorms and lots of other artists there to talk and eat meals with and a campfire every night to sit around and talk to other artists. It was very cool.
The class was based around making a pass-through ring to learn about all aspects of joinery. The idea for the class was an inspiration Mark had when he viewed a similar ring in one of Fritz Kuhn's books from the 1920's and was motivated to understand how this was done. He spent the next several months reverse engineering the ring and how to make it as part of the research for his third book, coming in a year or so, that will focus on joinery techniques for the blacksmith.
The ring itself starts with a 1/2 straight bar that forms the ring. There are some relatively complicated mathematics (for me, anyway!) to measure the stretch of the metal and the holes in it as it bends into a ring, so much of the lecture time was focused on this. It was a great growth experience to immerse myself in the details of how something like this is made and the reasons things are done certain ways. The complexity and accuracy inherent in a piece like this required an intense focus and precision to get it right and that also was a good learning opportunity for me. For example, all the holes are punched before assembly and they cannot be off more than 1/16 or the piece will not fit together.
The ring itself starts with a 1/2 straight bar that forms the ring. There are some relatively complicated mathematics (for me, anyway!) to measure the stretch of the metal and the holes in it as it bends into a ring, so much of the lecture time was focused on this. It was a great growth experience to immerse myself in the details of how something like this is made and the reasons things are done certain ways. The complexity and accuracy inherent in a piece like this required an intense focus and precision to get it right and that also was a good learning opportunity for me. For example, all the holes are punched before assembly and they cannot be off more than 1/16 or the piece will not fit together.
Mark's version (pictured on his website at http://www.markaspery.net/) of the pass-through ring:
In the class, we spent the first 3 days making all the necessary tools to make this pass-through ring.
- 1/2" drift
- 9/16" drift
- 9/16" slot punch (tempered)
- 3/4" square drift
- 3/4" slot punch (tempered)
- Fulstum cone
- Hardy base for the cone
- Chainmaker's swage
- 1/2" round hardy bottom tool
For the piece itself, there are two square holes punched in the round bar before it is bent in several stages into a semi-circle (later into the full circle). The square vertical bar comes next and two round holes are punched in it that will eventually allow the ring to pass through those.
There is an interesting lesson in that square piece alone because metal expands when it is hot like most things, so it will essentially be larger when the holes are punched and then shrink as it cools. This has to be taken into consideration when punching the holes, so it is not only the alignment of the holes (where they are on the bar) that must be measured, but also the size of the final hole when it is cool. Essentially the hole has to be slightly larger than the bar passing through it when it is cool (Mark calls is 1/2+) and then punched slightly larger than that (1/2++) to allow for the cooling because it is punched hot. This concept has some interesting implications on your tooling as well, since the tool itself has to be correctly (and accurately) made to one of these three sizes so the hole ends up correct at the end.
Which size should the tool be, you ask? Well, it can't be 1/2" because that is the same size as the bar passing through it and it can't be 1/2+ because the hole must be that size when it is cool (finished) so the ring can safely pass through it. Since the piece will be hot when punched, the tool must be made to punch 1/2++ so the hole can cool (shrink) back to the proper size. We made our punch and drift to make the holes 9/16" and that allows enough space for the ring to pass through even after the shrinking.
So, the class was incredible because we learned and practiced an amazing variety of skills and disciplines just to get to the point where we could consider making the piece. I consider the event a major growth period in my progression as a blacksmith and I am glad I had the opportunity to participate.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Sunday, June 13, 2010
A Beautiful, Rustic Cross
I have been working on a cross for a friend who will give it to his father for Father's Day. To make the ring, I got to try out his own forge welding system in my home forge for the first time. It worked, but not without some collateral damage. Unfortunately, I burnt out the bottom part of the forge because I forgot to put the side and bottom armor in (extra floor and sides for exactly this purpose), but it was definitely a learning experience. Yesterday, I put the finishing touches on the cross:
Monday, May 31, 2010
Leaves
I made some leaves recently as one of my first commissions. I think these will make wonderful gifts and my wife and the buyer think they are beautiful, so I will keep making them. I hope to have some more available for the Market Fair in July.
Here is what they look like shaped, but not finished:
Here is the finished product:
Sunday, May 30, 2010
The Tradeoffs of Using Propane or Coal Forges
The main advantage I have found with using propane is that your pieces don't burn up. If you leave a piece in a coal forge for too long there is a risk it will burn up (literally disintegrate and/or fall off), which stinks after you have time invested in a piece. That said, fire management is good skill to know and it is fun to use coal if you are a fire bug like most of us blacksmiths are.
In terms of overall productivity, however, propane is way better because it lights in an instant (no kindling, fussing, clinkers, etc) and your pieces can stay in the fire for long periods without burning up (essential if you are like me and get distracted all the time), so a larger percentage of the time you have available can be spent actually forging rather than futzing with the fire. Its really a personal choice though and everyone is different. Some guys will only use coal and the opposite is also true and everyone has their own set of reasons.
In terms of overall productivity, however, propane is way better because it lights in an instant (no kindling, fussing, clinkers, etc) and your pieces can stay in the fire for long periods without burning up (essential if you are like me and get distracted all the time), so a larger percentage of the time you have available can be spent actually forging rather than futzing with the fire. Its really a personal choice though and everyone is different. Some guys will only use coal and the opposite is also true and everyone has their own set of reasons.
I would think in most cases, propane would work well for beginners because you have less to worry about. Having to manage a fire AND worry about not buring yourself AND also trying to hit the piece while its hot AND trying to make contact in a place and that will actually move metal where you want it to is plenty to think about.
You can always try a coal fire at any time, so there is no hurry to learn that, especially if you have access to a propane forge already. Most guys start with coal because they don't have a propane forge yet and the cost to entry is less. If you are in a neighborhood, though, propane is the only way to go because there is no smoke to disturb the neighbors.
Hope this helps.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Friday, May 21, 2010
In action at the Market Fair!
This photo was taken by a new friend of ours, Donielle Rininger, and I like it very much. I am completely amazed that she caught the hammer in motion like she did.
At this point, I was at the very beginning of making a nail for a hook they were planning to hang in their home, which happens to be the exact same log cabin as we built. Donielle's husband Michael also happens to be a respected bee expert, which is something we are considering trying, so this photo represents a lot of touch points for all of us.
If you had told me several years ago that my chosen hobby would allow me to meet such interesting people, I never would have believed it, but it is true. Pretty cool stuff!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Colonial Farm Market Fair: Day 2
Another wonderful day -- many thanks to everyone who came out to see me!
Here, Kelly and I are working on a tenon (which connects into a mortis). It was great to have two of us there because we were able to do things we might not otherwise have been able to do. For example, here I am hammering and Kelly is holding the piece in tongs in one hand and the chisel in tongs in the other.
Sometimes it seems like a blacksmith needs 3 hands! :-)
Sometimes it seems like a blacksmith needs 3 hands! :-)




Saturday, May 15, 2010
Colonial Farm Market Fair: Day 1
My very talented wife setup this table with my pieces for the Fair.

I really enjoy explaining to the guests what I just made and how it all works. The people were great and sometimes the conversation is more enjoyable that making the piece itself!
Sometimes the crowd was smaller than at other times:
I was really fortunate this time to have Kelly Smyth to work with this time. Kelly has an amazing background and had been a professional smith for more than 30 years, so I learned some amazing things from her. One of the best things was her patient lessons on the ins and outs of making mortis and tenon joins. I really got an immersion in those this weekend and it was great to spend time with Kelly.
I really look forward to working with her again in July at the next Market Fair!
I forgot my hardy cutoff on the first day, so this photo shows me using a handheld one, which is significantly harder than the hardy version!
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Countdown to Claude Moore
I started cleaning up my pieces between conference calls and meetings to potentially sell this weekend. And, I am going to start taking orders and selling pieces on the website in the near future. How cool is that?
Monday, May 10, 2010
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Aspery Prep!
I am really excited about my summer blacksmithing adventures! I signed up for a class with my favorite master smith, Mark Aspery at Touchstone in June, so I am in the process now of making it through his first book.
Having met Mark once at last year's BGOV Hammer-in, I know how serious a smith he is and so I want to be prepared to make the most of my week with him! His book is called "Mastering the Fundamentals of Blacksmithing" (http://markaspery.net/www.markaspery.net/Book_1.html) and it is truly an incredible resource.
Having met Mark once at last year's BGOV Hammer-in, I know how serious a smith he is and so I want to be prepared to make the most of my week with him! His book is called "Mastering the Fundamentals of Blacksmithing" (http://markaspery.net/www.markaspery.net/Book_1.html) and it is truly an incredible resource.
I have been going "back to basics" in this book and it has been very fun. I actually understand the beginning chapters now since I have a little more experience and have been focusing on the tapers section first. It is definitely an area that develops skill as you do it.
I love one of the stories in the book, which talks about how Mark learned tapers when he was given his first job as a fledgling smith to make 1000 (yes, I did not mistype this) tapered points from 3/4" bar to use for mooring boats. I have probably made less than 50 real tapers (well, probably more if you include hooks, but my point is still valid) in the entire two years I have been a blacksmith, so I can't imagine how much one can learn doing 1000 of them!
Just scratching the surface here in terms of where I hope to go, but really enjoying it. Thanks, Mark!!
I love one of the stories in the book, which talks about how Mark learned tapers when he was given his first job as a fledgling smith to make 1000 (yes, I did not mistype this) tapered points from 3/4" bar to use for mooring boats. I have probably made less than 50 real tapers (well, probably more if you include hooks, but my point is still valid) in the entire two years I have been a blacksmith, so I can't imagine how much one can learn doing 1000 of them!
Just scratching the surface here in terms of where I hope to go, but really enjoying it. Thanks, Mark!!
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